Cedar Park
Air Conditioning Service
Built On Honesty and Integrity
Energy Star

  • Founded on Honesty & Integrity
  • Excellent Workmanship
  • Reasonable rates

Thank you for providing such great service for us once again. I really appreciate the quick response, courtesy and professionalism you and your technicians display. Seems today we are surrounded mostly by incompetence and poor customer service. Your company is an excellent example of that not being the case.
K.C. Crow
Building Official, City of Cedar Park, TX
I can't tell you who much I appreciate your company's outstanding customer service. Justin was very polite and informative about what was causing my heater not to work. During a very difficult time in my family's life you gave us great service and a very good price. All I can say is God bless you and your company.
James Billingsley

Thanks so much for taking care of us today so quickly. Brian was fantastic to deal with and made sure all that was wrong was the capacitor. $185 for twenty minutes worth of work was a little painful I'm not gonna lie, but I know you fit us in as quick as you could and it was much cheaper than I thought going in as I thought we were staring at replacing a coil again. You sir, just picked up another loyal customer.
Brandee Smith

I just wanted to take a second to tell you how much I appreciate everything you've done to help us keep cool. We've had problems with both of our AC units & I am always impressed by how fast your team is able to get us going. You went above and beyond what was expected to insure that the job was done right & for that we're truly grateful.
Gretta Leckbee

I just wanted to provide you some quick feedback. I truly appreciate the quick response and fair price for repairing my furnace. It did end up being the igniter as we discussed on the phone. Jon was very professional on the phone, when he called to verify he was on his way and on site when he was doing the repair. He spoke very highly of the company and the opportunities he's had while working there. In the service business, your employees are your best advertising tool. You'll be sure to get my endorsement and recommendation for anyone I know that needs HVAC work done.
Don Johnson

About a month ago, I returned home around 2:30 in the afternoon to find that my AC was blowing hot air. The temperature was in the high 90's that day. I was panicked and thought for sure we'd be spending the night in a motel room. The referral to Cedar Park AC Service came directly from Rheem's website, where they are listed as a 'Rheem Team Top Contractor.' I called, and within an hour the technician was there. Within another hour, I had a working, fully-serviced air conditioner. To top it off, the warranty on my AC expired that day - so the part that had broken was covered! I'm so grateful for the prompt, courteous, expert service I received. I encourage anyone who is looking for the same to call Cedar Park AC
Kathy Ertelt

I wanted to give you an update on the AC installation at my house. The AC units are running great. Your team's work was outstanding. I received the Rheem cash back checks. I received the City of Austin rebate checks. This was a great experience. I will recommend your firm to my neighbors.
Roger lane

I have you penciled in for next Wednesday to do the install. Thank you for your prompt attention to my concerns. As a longtime customer, acquaintance and friend of Remy's Service Co., you were my first and only choice for my air conditioning needs. Please don't hesitate to contact me if I can be of service to you in the future
Remy Mejia

Thank You! We will definitely do business with you in the future and recommend you to others.
Bill and Anne Wilson

Thank you so much for taking the extra step to have my attic door hinge fixed. I am very pleased with the service and the professional installation of my new Rheem system. Justin and Ryan did a great job and I extend my recommendation of your business to my friends and family. Mr. Murphree did an excellent job of fixing my attic door. My whole experience with Cedar Park AC totally exceeded my expectations.
Lauren Collins

Frequently Asked Questions about your HVAC System
We have compiled a list of some of the most asked questions regarding your cooling and heating system.  We recommend that you call us if you require any more information or would like any item further explained.

ENERGY STAR is a joint program of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency and the U.S. Department of Energy helping us all save money and protect the environment through energy efficient products and practices.

In 1992 the EPA introduced ENERGY STAR as a voluntary labeling program designed to identify and promote energy-efficient products to reduce greenhouse gas emissions. Computers and monitors were the first labeled products. The ENERGY STAR label is now on over 60 product categories including major appliances, office equipment, lighting, and home electronics. EPA has also extended the label to cover new homes and commercial and industrial buildings.
The typical household spends $2,200 a year on energy bills. With ENERGY STAR, you can save more than 30% or more than $700 per year, with similar savings of greenhouse gas emissions, without sacrificing features, style or comfort. ENERGY STAR helps you make the energy efficient choice.

If looking for new household products, look for ones that have earned the ENERGY STAR. They meet strict energy efficiency guidelines set by the EPA and US Department of Energy. You can identify them by the blue ENERGY STAR label:
If looking to make larger improvements to your home, EPA offers tools and resources to help you plan and undertake projects to reduce your energy bills and improve home comfort.

EPA's ENERGY STAR partnership for businesses offers a proven energy management strategy that helps in measuring current energy performance, setting goals, tracking savings, and rewarding improvements. EPA also provides an innovative energy performance rating system to see how your energy use compares to similar buildings and plants. EPA also recognizes top performing buildings with the ENERGY STAR.

What is SEER? EER? HSPF?
Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio (SEER), is most commonly used to measure the efficiency of a central air conditioner. The higher the SEER, the more efficient the system. SEER measures how efficiently a cooling system will operate over an entire season.

In technical terms, SEER is a measure of equipment the total cooling of a central air conditioner or heat pump (in Btu) during the normal cooling season as compared to the total electric energy input (in watt-hours) consumed during the same period

Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) is a measure of how efficiently a cooling system will operate when the outdoor temperature is at a specific level (95oF). The higher the EER, the more efficient the system.

In technical terms, EER is the steady-state rate of heat energy removal (i.e. cooling capacity) by the product measured in Btuh divided by the steady-state rate of energy input to the product measured in watts. This ratio is expressed in Btuh/watt.

Both SEER and EER are included in the ENERGY STAR specification because each rating indicates the energy efficiency of the product under different operating modes. SEER rating more accurately reflects overall system efficiency on a seasonal basis and EER reflects the system’s energy efficiency at peak day operations. Both ratings are important when choosing a product.

Heat Seasonal Performance Factor (HSPF) is the most commonly used measure of a heat pumps heating efficiency. The higher the HSPF, the more efficient the heat pump.

In technical term, HSPF represents the total heating output of a heat pump (including supplementary electric heat) during the normal heating season (in Btu) as compared to the total electricity consumed (in watt-hours) during the same period. HSPF is based on tests performed in accordance with AHRI 210/240 (formerly ARI Standard 210/240)1.

What is reflective insulation (a radiant barrier)?
Can it earn the ENERGY STAR?

Reflective insulation, also called a radiant barrier, is a metallic foil material (usually aluminum) designed to block radiant heat transfer across open spaces. Reflective insulation is most effective at reducing cooling bills in hot, sunny climates. However, in some special cases the product can help reduce heating bills as well. Keep in mind, the effective R-value of the product will vary depending on the direction of heat flow (up, down, sideways). The performance and long-term cost-effectiveness of the product depends on number of factors, including where the product is installed, how the product is installed, and the amount of existing insulation currently in the home.
4MXW6 Heat Pump High WallXL20i

What's the difference between a split system and a packaged unit?
A central air conditioner (or heat pump) is either a split-system unit or a packaged unit. The majority of consumers have split systems in their homes. A split-system central air conditioner has 3 components:

  • an outdoor metal cabinet that contains the condenser and compressor
  • an indoor cabinet that contains the evaporator coil
  • an air handler, that in most cases is part of the furnace or heat pump, that sends the cool air through the duct system

If your home already has a furnace but no air conditioner, a split-system is the most economical central air conditioner to install.

A packaged central air conditioner has the evaporator coil, condenser, and compressor all located in one cabinet, which usually is placed on a roof or on a concrete slab next to the house's foundation. This type of air conditioner also is used in small commercial buildings. Air supply and return ducts come from indoors through the home's exterior wall or roof to connect with the packaged air conditioner, which is usually located outdoors. Packaged air conditioners often include electric heating coils or a natural gas furnace. This combination of air conditioner and central heater eliminates the need for a separate furnace indoors.

  Where are the biggest air leaks in my home?
Many air leaks are easy to find because they are easy to feel - like those around windows, doors, and through electrical outlets. But hidden air leaks in attics, basements, and around chimneys are often more significant sources of energy loss. Consider addressing these big leaks first because they will have a greater impact on improving your comfort and reducing your utility bills.
Should I get my air ducts cleaned?
EPA does not recommend that air ducts be cleaned except on an as-needed basis because of the continuing uncertainty about the benefits of duct cleaning under most circumstances. If no one in your household suffers from allergies or unexplained symptoms or illnesses and if, after a visual inspection of the inside of the ducts, you see no indication that your air ducts are contaminated with large deposits of dust or mold, having your air ducts cleaned is probably unnecessary. It is normal for the return registers to get dusty as dust-laden air is pulled through the grate. This does not indicate that your air ducts are contaminated with heavy deposits of dust or debris; the registers can be easily vacuumed or removed and cleaned.
On the other hand, if family members are experiencing unusual or unexplained symptoms or illnesses that you think might be related to your home environment, you should discuss the situation with your doctor. EPA has published Indoor Air Quality: An Introduction for Health Professionals that can be obtained free of charge by contacting IAQ INFO at the number listed in this guide. You may obtain another free EPA booklet from IAQ INFO entitled The Inside Story: A Guide to Indoor Air Quality for guidance on identifying possible indoor air quality problems and ways to prevent or fix them.

You may consider having your air ducts cleaned simply because it seems logical that air ducts will get dirty over time and should occasionally be cleaned. While the debate about the value of periodic duct cleaning continues, no evidence suggests that such cleaning would be detrimental, provided that it is done properly. However, if a service provider fails to follow proper duct cleaning procedures, duct cleaning can cause indoor air problems. For example, an inadequate vacuum collection system can release more dust, dirt, and other contaminants than if you had left the ducts alone. A careless or inadequately trained service provider can damage your ducts or heating and cooling system, possibly increasing your heating and air conditioning costs or forcing you to undertake difficult and costly repairs or replacements. Learn more.

How much insulation should I add to my attic?
The recommended level for most attics is to insulate to R-38 (or about 12 -15 inches, depending on the insulation type). In Northern climates, as much as R-49 is recommended. R-Value is a measure of the insulation’s ability to resist heat flow. The higher the R-Value, the better the thermal performance.

For more comprehensive information, check the Department of Energy’s online Insulation Guide.
What are typically the most cost-effective improvements that I can make to my home to save energy?
It depends on your home. Usually, near the top of the list are sealing gaps, cracks, and other leaks that let outside air into your home (especially in the attic), adding insulation in the attic, sealing and insulating air ducts that run through attics or crawlspaces, and repairing or replacing old or poorly functioning heating and cooling systems and appliances. Installing ENERGY STAR qualified lighting in your home is also very cost-effective.

Can I add new insulation on top of old insulation?
Yes, you can add the new insulation on top of old insulation, unless it is wet. If it is wet or appears that the insulation has previously been wet, you should look for the cause and repair the problem to prevent a reoccurrence. Remove any wet insulation. Wet insulation can lead to mold, mildew, or even the rotting of your ceiling or roof rafters. Make sure to do the following:

  •  Do not place "faced" insulation on top of existing insulation in the attic. Any new batt or roll insulation added on top of existing insulation in the attic needs to be without a vapor retarder (face). Most vapor retarders on fiberglass are made of kraft paper. The presence of this paper vapor retarder on top of between layers of insulation can trap moisture leading to mold or even rotting.
  •  Any existing batt or roll insulation in the attic should have the facing against the attic drywall floor or no facing at all.
  •  Either batt or rolled insulation or blown loose-fill insulation (fiberglass or cellulose) can be installed on top of old insulation.
  •  If your new insulation is rolled insulation, you should roll it out perpendicular to the joists. Be sure to use un-faced rolls. If you cannot find unfaced rolls, you can simply pull the kraft paper (vapor retarder) off without much loss of insulation. You should not tack down rolled insulation. Insulation need to be fluffy to block heat flow. You will reduce the R-value of the insulation by squashing it flat to tack it down.
  •  If you discover vermiculite insulation in your attic, be sure to have it tested for before doing work there. If the test reveals that asbestos is present, the vermiculite should be removed by a certified removal expert before disturbing it with the installation of more insulation.

Alternatively, you can also hire a local contractor to blow loosefill insulation (fiberglass or cellulose) in your attic. The process takes a couple of hours.

Can I figure out the right size of HVAC equipment needed for my home myself, or do I really need a contractor?
The short answer is you really should get a contractor to determine the proper size of HVAC equipment needed. To calculate the proper size of heating and cooling equipment for your home requires use of an engineering procedure such as ACCA/ANSI Manual J. Using short-cuts or ‘rules-of-thumb’ typically results in equipment that is incorrectly sized for your home. Your contractor should determine the right size for your HVAC equipment by using ACCA/ANSI Manual J or an equivalent sizing calculation tool that takes into account specific information about your home. Homeowners who are interested in sizing calculations can purchase the procedures from Air Conditioning Contractors of America (ACCA) (Manual J-8 Abridged Edition is $64).
Does it save money to set your heat down in the winter (or your AC up in the summer) when you are away during the day?
It is a common misconception that it takes more energy to heat up a cold house than it does to keep a house warm all the time. Turning down the thermostat will always save energy, as will turning up the air conditioner temperature setting. Heat moves from hot to cold, and the rate of heat transfer increases with greater temperature differences between inside and out. Smaller temperature differences between your house and outside generally means you’ll lose less heat (or air conditioning) from inside the house to the outside. Therefore, you will save energy by only heating or cooling as much as necessary, for the occupants and time of day.

If your concern is comfort, or having to wait for your house to heat up or cool down after you get home, invest in a programmable thermostat – it can begin to heat or cool your home 30-60 minutes before you get home, so the temperature is just right when you arrive. Through proper use of a programmable thermostat (using the 4 pre-programmed settings) you can save about $180* every year in energy costs for a typical, single-family home.

*The $180 savings assumes an 8 hour daytime setback and a 10 hour nighttime setback of 8 degrees F in winter and 4 degrees F in summer.
Should I turn off my Room Air Conditioner when I'm not home?
There are a lot of variables in this question. You will always save money if you turn your air conditioner off or put it on a higher temperature setting while you're not in the room. However, with many Room ACs, unlike central air conditioning, you can't program it to go on at a certain time, so when you come home you will have to set it to the desired temperature and depending on the unit, the outside temperature, and your insulation, it will take a certain amount of time to reach that desired temperature. Another option is to use a programmable wall outlet timer with your room AC. Make sure that the amperage and voltage ratings of the wall outlet timer are appropriate for the electricity demands of the room air conditioner.

If you have a separate Room AC in your bedroom, it might work to turn that off while you are out, and turn it back on when you return and by the time you're ready to retire to your bedroom it will be cooled off.

If you are purchasing a new room air conditioner, you may want to look for one with a built-in timer and/or programmable thermostat settings.
How can I tell if my home uses too much energy?
A quick first step to evaluate your energy use is the Home Energy Yardstick. If you have 5 minutes and your energy bills are handy, find out if your home’s energy performance measures up. To use the Yardstick, you will need to enter some common information about your home such as age, square footage, number of occupants and energy bill totals for a consecutive 12-month period (one year). If you don't keep your bills, contact your utility for a 12-month summary.

If your home’s energy performance is low, consider contacting a professional to conduct home energy audit to diagnose why. First, contact your utility to find out if they offer free or discounted energy audits to their customers. If not, you can hire a Home Energy Rater. A Home Energy Rater is a specialized contractor who performs a standardized evaluation of the energy efficiency of your home.
Do air ducts make a difference in my home’s energy use?
Yes. Ducts that move air to and from a forced air furnace, central air conditioner (CAC), or heat pump are often big energy wasters. Sealing and insulating ducts can improve the efficiency of your heating and cooling system by as much as 20%. Focus first on sealing ducts that run through the attic, crawlspace, or unheated basement. Use duct sealant (mastic) or metal-backed (foil) tape to seal the seams and connections of ducts. After sealing the ducts in those spaces, wrap the ducts in insulation to keep them from getting hot in the summer or cold in the winter. Next, seal ducts that you can access in the heated or cooled part of the house. You can even tape over the filter slot after replacing the furnace filter to reduce leaks around the filter – just replace the tape every 3 months or so.
  How do I know if I need a new heating and cooling (HVAC) system?
If your HVAC is more than 10 years old or not keeping your house comfortable, you should have it looked at by a professional HVAC contractor. If it is not performing efficiently or needs upgrading, consider replacing it with a unit that has earned the ENERGY STAR. Installed correctly, these high-efficiency heating and cooling units can save up to 20% on heating and cooling costs. Before you invest in a new HVAC system, make sure that you have addressed the big air leaks in your house and the duct system. Sometimes, these are the real sources of problems rather than your HVAC equipment.
  Why should I choose an ENERGY STAR qualified room air conditioner?
ENERGY STAR qualified room air conditioners use at least 10% less energy than standard models. You’ll also save an average of $75 over the lifetime of the machine. Additionally, ENERGY STAR qualified room air conditioners often include more features, such as timers, digital displays, remote controls, and directional vents.
  Where should a thermostat (programmable or otherwise) be located in your house? Can it be near a cold air intake? Is it worth having a thermostat moved if it is in a bad spot?
To work properly and efficiently, thermostats should be located away from any sources of cold or heat. Install your unit on an interior wall, away from heating or cooling vents and other sources of heat or drafts (doorways, windows, A/C vents, radiators/heating vents, skylights, direct sunlight or bright lamps). It is worth moving a thermostat if it’s in a bad spot, especially if you’re doing any renovations
  Do I get a bigger HVAC system to be comfortable and save energy?
When replacing heating and cooling (HVAC) equipment, bigger doesn’t always mean better. If the unit is too large for your home, you will be less comfortable and might actually have higher utility bills. For example, an oversized central air conditioner will operate in short run cycles, not allowing the unit to reach efficient operation and remove humidity from the air – resulting in an uncomfortable home. Your contractor should determine the right size for your heating and cooling equipment by using ACCA/ANSI Manual J or an equivalent sizing calculation tool that takes into account specific information about your home.
  What should I expect from my contractor doing heating and cooling system maintenance?
• checking thermostat setting
• tightening all electrical connections
• measuring voltage and current on motors
• lubricating all moving parts
• inspecting the condensate drain
• checking system controls
• cleaning and adjusting blower components
• inspecting, cleaning or changing the air filter
• checking all gas or oil connections & pressure
• checking burner combustion and draft, and heat exchangers (on furnaces)
• cleaning indoor and outdoor coils
• checking refrigerant charge (on air conditioning).
Source: www.energystar.gov